Where to even begin on this magical place. To start.. just steer away from the town.. if thats the reason you went to Moab then you’re there for all the wrong reasons. The beauty of Moab lies outside the city limits and thats where you’ll find the real magic.
Driving into Moab its flat.. for awhile. You’re thinking where the heck is this canyon and red rock I was promised!! As you slowly descend you start to notice the rock change, the walls on either side of you get taller and taller and things just start to make your jaw drop. How in the world? Yes exactly.
Driving into town we were losing daylight quick! First stop, find a spring.. always!! If you don’t know about spring water… YOU ARE NOT LIVING MAN!! Findaspring.com is our favorite resource! Or you can always as a local!! So before entering town we take a left pull off to the side of the road and fill up our 7 gallon water tank with pure desert water coming straight from the red rock! THE BEST! We weren’t the only ones either!! We had a line of cars behind us waiting to do the same thing! Beautiful thing!!
After the water stop next on the to do list… wifi. Wait wifi? We’re not proud but…the final season of GOT was airing.. yes we had to. I mean it was getting dark.. and we already knew where we were going to camp.. what else were we going to do! So we pull up to a Micky D’s and streamed to episode and went on with our evening. Since we were in our van with the blinds closed, no one thought we were sitting in the van. SO many tourists walked up and tried to peek in while we were sitting in the parking lot. pretty hilarious actually!!
So next campsite. While we were in Buena Vista we stopped in the gear shop and got to talking to the gear head and mentioned we were headed to Moab! He gave us the most clutch advice for camping close and basically in town for free. The thing about Moab is yes there’s a ton of BLM land (Bureau of Land Management aka free camping) but its outside of town and pretty hard to navigate in the dark, especially when its your first time there! If you’re headed to Moab and curious where we camped for the night within the town.. message us! We’re real people we’d love to tell you and probably will just join you on your adventure haha!
The next morning we woke up before the sunrise, wanting to maximize our day! We were SO ready to climb this red red rock!!! Plus we were so stoked that our friends Dani & Derek were on their way and meeting us around at the crag! So we made a move on, we were hitting up the famous Wall Street of Moab! Wall Street is literally a massive wall right off the road and makes for the easiest rock climbing approach ever! We parked, grabbed the gear, laced up the shoes and started getting sendy.
The rock was so warm, so soft, so tactile, so so so perfect. Literally a rock climbers dream.
After we got some climbs in, we decided to head into town to catch up on some laundry before Dani & Derek met us at the wall. We set up a nice shop on the side of the road to let our clothes air dry. Just perfect!
Derek & Dani show up and now we’re really about to get sendy! A lot of climbing in Moab is Trad climbing – short for Traditional Climbing where you need cams & trad gear! This is the part of climbing where it gets reaaaallllyy expensive! The climbing we mainly do is sport climbing. So when we climb a route, someone else has already bolted and established the route. We then lead or climb the route, use our quick draws (carabiners) to hook onto the bolts making our way all the way to the top. Traditional climbing is a type of climbing where you used gear to place into cracks which then become your bolts or anchors. This adds a more difficult challenge because now you are climbing and having to worry about fitting the right size of gear in and hoping it doesn’t pop out.
Why in the world would anyone want to this is what I’m imagine you are thinking. Well its like any sport, once you’ve mastered one aspect of it you are introduced to another version of it and the addiction or desire spreads. Trad climbing takes you to some of the most beautiful places in the world and opens up a whole other can of worms in the climbing world. Suddenly almost any rock face becomes climbable!
So John, Dani and I learned to crack climb that day thanks to our friends Austin and Derek and their trad gear!! Oh yeah, Austin joined in somewhere along that day! Him and Derek worked together a few summers ago restoring national park trails!
CRACK is ADDICTING!
We spent the afternoon climbing and finished up with just enough time to drive outside of town and find a BLM camp site like I mentioned earlier! Utah we are thankful for your public lands and all the beauty thats bestowed within it. Man solitude doesn’t get any better!!